Saturday, December 12, 2009

La Guadalupana

It's clear to me from my fuzzy photos that I need to get more practice shooting my camera at night. But at least last night I had the camera with me, and that's a start.


Our San Fernando church choir provided the music for the Guadalupe mass late last night, outdoors under the street lights in a beautiful setting in front of the church. Not by choice, but from necessity. The church's main sanctuary was destroyed when its dome collapsed during Hurricane Jimena. So we bundled up in red rebozos and scarves and sat in little folding chairs, with Lolita, our maestra, sitting at a tiny keyboard desperately trying to keep her sheet music from blowing away. The padre, standing on a dais in front of the grotto with Mary's statue towering over him, wasn't very warm in his usual white vestments and he made jokes about the cold, but when he talked about losing our "casa" he was close to tears. San Fernando is the oldest and grandest church in Guaymas, but except for some intact outer rooms it's an empty shell, perhaps for years.

The Guadalupe mass traditionally includes mariachi, and I was not disappointed when a band showed up for their annual blessing, not in the usual mariachi suits but looking a little ragtag, like laborers on their night off. Which they may have been.  I was so pleased that I remembered at least the first two verses of "Las Mañanitas."


Afterward the choir packed up our music and trooped over to Lolita's house, a block away, for menudo and buñuelas. Lolita pulled off her black poncho and modeled her special Guadalupe outfit, aglow with sequins and satin ribbons. We sat around the living room singing, and I was thrilled to join in when they got to my favorite song, "Sabor a Mi."  

The buñuelos were crisp and the menudo was superb, prepared by Malena, Lolita's housekeeper. "¡Que rico!" I said, "I don't care what's in it,  ¡muy sabroso!"

Before I left, Lolita asked the name of my friend in the hospital so they could say special prayers for him. So, Timoteo, if you start to feel a little better, thank the choir of San Fernando.

Feliz Dia de Guadalupe, amigos!

6 comments:

Leslie Limon said...

Feliz dia to you too, Bliss! So glad that you enjoyed the celebration of La Morenita de Mexico!

Sunshine said...

Have you had alot of drumming going on? We've heard lots of drumming..and last night finally checked outside and there was a little parade of traditionally dressed people dancing around to drumming. They had stopped in front of the tienda on our street...they stayed there for over an hour drumming. Any idea what that's all about? I figured it had something to do with the weekend holiday....but wasnt for sure.

Cynthia Johnson and Mike Nickell said...

"The show must go on!" Right? Nice post and we're also thinking about Tim.

1st Mate said...

Leslie - It's my favorite! When else are you going to have a mariachi band walk in at the end of the service and get everybody singing?

Sunshine - on the streets of Guaymas tonight are a lot of people in Indian getups, adults and kids. I think they are celebrating the Aztecs who were converted by the Virgen de Guadalupe

Cyn and Mike - And a good one it was. Tonight I went again, and there was a quinciniero too. Pretty girls shivering in fancy gowns, little kids in Indian, angel, Virgin Mary and Joseph costumes, whatta scene!

jomamma said...

Bliss, we need to get your church hooked up with a church here in the states to send people down there to help rebuild. I'm going to talk to my neighbor whose from central MX, maybe her church would be interested.

1st Mate said...

Jomamma - If only... The problem is that San Fernando is over 100 years old and therefore property of the Mexican government. They're going to take their sweet time getting engineers and architects and experts up here to look over the damage, do their reports, do reports on the reports, etc. etc. before a single drop of concrete is poured.