Saturday, April 03, 2010

Fear, Loathing and Jubilation!

Known for its beaches and boating, my town undergoes a major transformation every year at this time. From November to the end of March, the population is largely comprised of retired gringos...gray heads on the beach, silver heads in the restaurants, white heads on the golf course, bald heads on the boats. Then they suddenly beat a hasty retreat to escape a sudden influx of young, scantily clad Mexicanos. The view is better, but traffic creeps through town at glacial speed, each night drums throb until dawn, and every morning the streets are strewn with millions of plastic bags, bottles and other fast food remnants. We hear rumors of empty vacation homes being ransacked, strangers passing out in private patios. Visitors fill up the hotels and the RV parks, they camp on the beaches, they sleep on bus benches. Beer flows in astonishing quantities from streetside tiendas that have sprung up like mushrooms, surrounded on three sides by sturdy hurricane fencing in case of riots. Mexico is a young country, after all, and young people do crazy things, especially after a number of cervezas.

In some parts of Mexico and the rest of the Latin world there are solemn traditional parades with thousands of the devout carrying saints and Jesus stand-ins carrying crosses, but here in our desert paradise there's no evidence of what Semana Santa is about. Instead there's techno rock pounding up and down the main street. Bring back the tubas, the polka, even the mariachis with the flat trumpets,  por favor.


Those of us who didn't leave town hole up at home with our stockpiled snacks and TVs, refusing to venture out for any reason. Yesterday I tried to drive two blocks to the nearest store and it took me an hour to get home. ¡Caramba!

  Here's our usually uncrowded beach as it looks this weekend, from a travel site called Mexico Guru.
But the bright side is that every morning  a hardworking crew cleans up the streets and it's possible to take a walk or a drive while the youngsters sleep off their all-night shenanigans. 


Another benefit was that I got to know my neighbors better. In the morning my little friend M. came over and we planted tomato, lettuce and cilantro seeds in old plastic containers I've been saving. Afterward I asked if she was hungry and she said she had to go home for lunch. Moments later she ran back to invite me to her house. Her dad did the cooking, Cuban-style, and served up a savory lentil soup flavored with lots of cilantro, along with grilled chicken and vegetables. A very talented fellow, her papa. We talked for a couple of hours, M's family and I, about their trip last week to the historic mining district of Moctezuma, stirring up once more my urge to explore more of Mexico. I'm so lucky to have such congenial neighbors who'll still be here when almost all my amigos norteamericanos have gone for the season.


I've saved the best news for last. Tomorrow Semana Santa will be almost over and I have spent the time in a decidedly joyful frame of mind. The Capt came home after a five-month separation, and our 20-year marriage had a resurrection of its own.

So salud! Let everyone celebrate. I have something to celebrate too.

23 comments:

Mic said...

Delighted to hear your marriage resurrected. So happy for you both :-)

Liz said...

Oh Joy, and Yeah for the many Resurections of the Season.
The Beaster Hunny does it again !! ;))
Happy Easter.
Mata ne
Liz

jomamma said...

Great news! Happy Easter to you.

Chrissy y Keith said...

Keith and I just have to see this next year. We knew it would be crowded as our firends in Guayabitos always send photos, but I had no idea it would get that packed in SC.
Perfhaps a renewal of vowes in San Carlos by the Sea is in the cards for you and the Capt. I should think it would be a great cause for us to attend. May would be nice. Plus, you look smashing in dresses. I have always wanted to attend a Mexican wedding.

1st Mate said...

Mic - Yo tambien!

Liz - Beaster Hunny? Love that.

Jomamma - And to you, amiga.

C&K - OMG, I've got my own re-wedding planner! Does this mean you're coming down in May? Wanna go to Sagitario and help me pick out the dress?

Anonymous said...

Happy Easter Bliss. I'm glad to hear that you and the captain are working things out. Sometimes a separation makes us appreciate each other more.

Have a great week!

Teresa

Chrissy y Keith said...

Yes, we were planning a May trip, but now it is has the very best of reasons. I would love to help choose the dress. I am sure you can round up the musicians and your cooking crew can help with all those details. Now all we need is a time, date and place. Voila! instant re-wedding.

Babs said...

The sermon at church this morning was about "New Beginnings". That they can cause doubt, uneasiness because as humans we're always afraid of change but in the end it is ALWAYS an interesting adventure!

The thing for me is that I had not been in a church in 6 years.....new beginnings.......

Congrats to you both for having the courage to work it out!

Steve Cotton said...

The two of you have been in my prayers. Your news was the best Easter gift I could have.

tineke said...

i am absolutely delighted for you!!!

tineke

Jonna said...

awww... how wonderful! Glad you are First Mate again and have your Captain back. I think you were doing pretty well sailing along on your own though, it is just more fun with a partner.

Brenda said...

There was a traditional procession here in Guaymas.

Felipe said...

Jeez, Ms. Matey, you make that town sound absolutely dreadful. Full of old Gringos and Canucks half the year and full of drunken young Mexicans much of the rest. I recommend you head to the Hills.

Regarding the Captain´s reappearance, I wish you good luck with that.

1st Mate said...

C&K - You do understand that this wouldn't be strictly a Mexican wedding, because of course I'm not marrying a Mexican. But there are a number of Mexicans I'd want to invite. The Capt does think he can be here by May (he's back on the boat in Ztown, getting it ready to sail home). We'll talk more.

Babs - It does feel like a new beginning and not just back to the same 'ol same ol'. Some things have changed for the better, and we're both feeling hopeful.

Steve - Bless you for your prayers, amigo.

Tineke - Thanks, I think we both learned from it.

Jonna - True, I was doing well on my own, and it's good to know that I would have been OK either way.

Brenda - I thought there would be some ceremonies there, and in fact I heard there was a little procession, about a mile, here in town too. Wish there had been more notice of it, I would have joined it.

Felipe - Granted, we do need to do some exploring ~ the Capt and I are already making some plans. But here the drunken mob part is already over and the streets are being cleaned up this morning. In fact, now it's just about perfect, weather and population-wise. And I don't have any problem with the gringo geezers either even though they're all richer than I am.

norm said...

I have been in a marriage contract for 32 years and keeping that contract intact is hard so congrats on finding a way to heal the tear in your agreement with your husband. I feel that my marriage is the most important thing I have but I still need to get away now and then, at least half our vacations are solo or with our friends. We both have found that a month or two apart makes our marriage contract easier to live with.

Felipe said...

Norm, contract? You might find marriage more engaging and appealing if you do not consider it a business deal.

norm said...

I married my high school sweetheart who I hooked up with at the age of 15, our contract is 32 years old but we have have been together our whole adult life and it was not because of our contract that made it legal. What I was saying was that a little space is a good thing for a couple who are in a long term relationship. I maybe was not clear that I like the idea of a contract and how it makes people work just a little harder on being married. Call me old fashioned if you like but I like my deal with my wife.

Chrissy y Keith said...

Bliss, I consider anything in Mexico to be Mexican, so the details are lost on me. I am just giddy about the circumstnaces. We will plan around the Capt's arrival. Keith is a Deacon in our church, so we can have him perform to ceremony if you like. Actually I think many of your friends should have interaction.Or just maybe the 2 of you. See, I am being the wedding planner without even having an invitation. So sorry... just giddy.

1st Mate said...

Felipe AND Norm - A marriage contract doesn't necessarily have to look like a business deal, although it would be a good thing to have agreement about things like shared finances and mutual fidelity (that sounds like an insurance company). I'm curious, Norm, about whether yours is a written contract.

C&K - If you can bring the minister, that's another requirement we can check off the list. Bueno! And the Capt is on his way, so we'll see how long it takes him to sail north this time of year.

norm said...

I went to the court house with my wife to be back in 77 and paid a small fee to get my license, that if you read the license, it is a standard boilerplate contract. It is very clear in it's language that you are entering a contract of marriage that is binding on you in a legal sort of way-a contract. The only way to break that contract is for the court to agree to let you break your marriage contract and that is only the one you swear to in front of the court's rep. I got married in church, on my knees in front of a room full of my kin and friends, another can of worms as far as all the rules and regulations I agreed to, all those years ago. I'm lucky, I can laugh at Meatloaf's song "waiting for the end of time", many folks are not so blessed in their contracts.

DanaJ said...

Felipe has been married 3 times....who is he to be questioning Norm's terminology about marriage or anyone else's?

Felipe said...

Jeez, what was I thinking?! Of course, when a young girl, or a grown woman for that matter, thinks of romance, thinks of the man she will spend her life with, naturally she imagines this:

A handsome prince atop a white stallion that comes pounding from afar down that ancient highway of the heart, here he comes, so handsome ... bearing not a bouquet of red roses, not a proclamation of eternal love, no, none of that . . . he arrives with his lance held high, and on the tip of that lance is skewered the contract! Yes, the marital deal! Notarized.

Perhaps in triplicate.

And the woman´s first response, that response she has imagined since childhood, is this:

Let me run it by my lawyer. I´ll get back with you next week.

1st Mate said...

Felipe - wrong again! If it's a viable contract, every item has been hashed out beforehand by both parties. Then if aforementioned prince wants to make a grand entrance with a copy hoist on his petard, that's fine. But yes, she might do well to run it by her lawyer.